Drop crotch shorts and pants seem to be synonymous these past seasons with certain NYC boutiques and designer names both big and small. When the above gentleman was asked where he found his, he simply replied “
It’s unusual to see these same cultural issues still existing during an era of globalization and digital information, but at the same time it’s nice and humbling to know that we do still live in a place where there can exist a certain mystery and wonder within our world.
So, if the idea is that we can transform typical pieces enough to fill them with new ideas and individual identity, then the question is: how far do we need to transform or reinvent typical pieces in order for them to achieve this new idea?
Above we have a dress shirt – a symbol of men’s fashion – but here it is Raf Simons-ified. This piece is inflated beyond possibility. Hanging down to the knees and exaggerating the sheerness of men’s white button downs to near transparency (does it piss off anyone else that you can always see through white dress shirts?). Here, the symbols have stayed the same: collar, white fabric, button down, tails, cuffs. But through their exaggeration the form itself has been changed.
Above we have two more typical men’s fashion pieces: the hoodie and baseball cap. These pieces, however, change the material and construction in order to set themselves apart. The form of the hoodie has not changed, but by piecing it together with boldly contrasting colors it is changed enough to alter our perception of the piece. In a way, the lines created by the piecing allow the hoodie to be at first perceived as a different form altogether. The baseball cap is a form nostalgic irony by keeping it the same archetypal symbol but finishing it in and unexpected yellow patent leather.
I like these photos for their accessible inspiration. Yes, the garments pictured are designer, but any person in any town with any sum of money can easily reproduce these ideas in many ways with a bit of hunting and some time at the sewing machine. Meanwhile, by keeping basic and typical forms, it allows men even in towns and villages with the smallest fashion perception to express themselves with less potential of being ostracized or burnt at the stake by the townsfolk.
I know what you’re thinking. Blazers? Dress slacks? This is not Vanguard. Although these items are an unlikely find for us, I wanted to present them in a way that is expressive and distinctly not 'GQ.' The two men featured here have found ways to create a strong, individual statement with traditional men’s pieces while also appearing very well put together.
In the first photo, note how the high waisted and full dress pant is accentuated by the pocket chain. The juxtaposition of this pant with a tight blazer creates a unique silhouette.
The man below also alters the traditional silhouette by layering loose, unstructured pieces that appear to drape together. This creates richness, depth, and movement. The open neckline not only shows off his tattoo, but exposes and emphasizes the human beneath these layers.
Both men make use of contrasting textures. We see gauzy fabrics, corduroy, fur, and elements with sheen such as patent leather, metals, and nylon. This keeps the outfits interesting and rich.
This should probably be my last plug for a Spring 2008 line as that season is now being quickly clearanced away and we can already see what is being created for next year. I do want to focus, however, on this one show as I believe it to be a pivotal point for Raf Simons. In the past few years, Raf has clearly been thinking more and more about dressing men outside of the box and in new silhouettes. Spring 2008 finally hit a point of devotion towards innovation as his line explored truly new forms appropriate for today’s man. We see this innovation only continuing to grow and evolve for this fall and the upcoming spring.
The idea of the “appropriate” amount of skin a man can display has a huge impact on the amount of new forms and shapes that can be invented for men’s fashion. This influence is commonly discussed in women’s clothing (think of revolutionary flapper-garb and the ever changing skirt length) but we can, and do, see the same thing happening in menswear. The seventies and eighties are known for short shorts, bulgingly tight pants, and an abundance of exposed chest hair. Going into the nineties, however, these elements were all sharply removed and we saw the introduction of “relaxed fit” pants and shorts that would rarely run higher than knee height. This modesty provided us with new silhouettes for men but, as the pendulum quickly swings towards less modesty this summer, we should see even more emancipation in possible shapes for men.
The ever-deepening v-neck tee served as a good indicator for an attitude of exposure edging on, but few could have guessed the explosion of short-shorts coming from every side – on the runway, chain stores, vintage – even to the point of magazines denouncing any short (aside from knickers, of course) that are not clear above the knees. Along with shorts, a sea of new sheers and lose tanks – which seem to criticize covering the upper portion of men – have recently come into play. Place the catalyst where you will (global warming, vintage nostalgia) but one thing is sure: this reinvented exposure of the male body will provide a steady stream of new shapes and pieces that today’s man can add to his wardrobe.
This also creates a fantastic environment for menswear designers who want to experiment with new pieces and ideas that reveal more of a man’s body without their designs so quickly and negatively denounced as “flamboyant” as they probably would have been only a few seasons ago. This is going to provide menswear with a fantastic flow of new possibilities.
Fashion agendas aside, the exposure of the male figure could not have come at a better time when we consider larger men’s social issues. In times that may be characterized by mainstream teenage use of steroids and the growing visibility and discussion of male body dysmorphic disorders, will this sudden fashion trend allow also for visibility of how the “true” male figure is proportioned or will it only further feed the insecurities of today’s already vulnerable men?
