Vanguard

San Francisco Street - Long Lost Photos

2008-11-28T02:06:00.000-08:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Life has been crazy as my time has been consumed with another (much bigger and top secret) fashion project that I’m hoping to be able to share with you all soon. Completely neglecting a blog, however, I would not; menswear eye candy may come less frequently but never will it stop.

Runway - Marni: Fall 2008

2008-11-24T01:32:00.000-08:00

I was very excited to see the layering that Marni created for this fall as, similar to the Thom Brown show, it explored new men’s proportions. Unfortunately, although Thom Brown’s show was perhaps a bit costumey, it may be more relevant than Marni. This is because Marni relied on cropped turtlenecks which sadly harkens back to an age of mid-rift baring Shania Twain. Instances like this make me wish fashion wasn’t so closely tied to perception (this would also allow me to wear all those sweaters people confuse as my Jedi costume). At least we can learn something from the Marni show – men would look really good as 90’s country divas…oh, and a line directly below the chest is a great place to divide men’s silhouettes when longer torso proportions are in use.

Repeat an idea much?
Ok, at least the pieces below can be worn by the every day man; add these to my wish list.

San Francisco Street - Tony Transforms!

2008-11-10T00:48:00.000-08:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

As if my fashion-crush on Tony wasn’t already completely set in stone. Not only do I see him wander into a party in an amazing coat of his own design, but it then transforms into three more heart-wrenchingly amazing jackets.

I would drink a bottle of Paraquat weed killer (à la Isabella Blow) right now if Tony promised to make my funeral outfit.

Runway - Thom Browne: Fall 2008

2008-11-06T00:07:00.000-08:00

Normally I would be considered much less than a fan of Thom Browne. Although he helped usher in suit shorts, which I avidly support, in most cases his clothing appears stiff, contrived, and either overly restrained or not restrained enough. His Fall 2008 show, however, completely changed the way I view his work.

For many, the show was seen as the circus it was themed after. How it should be viewed, however, is a study on how the male body can be divided and broken apart into new proportions and a statement on today’s male gender issues.

Mainly, Browne introduced a high-waisted, traditionally-styled men’s slack paired with a cropped jacket. Oddly enough, this idea actually creates a much more flattering and stately appearance than typical suits. Above, the shorts provide the outfit with a bit of a bounce. Below, the emphasized contrast and the long pant give it a stiff and heavy appearance while the exposed ankles maintain a sense of movement. In both cases, the placement of pocket flaps on the pants is incredibly important to maintain a sense of the waist’s true location. The repetition of these flaps onto the jacket help to ensure that the cropped top will be viewed as squared off and masculine.

Above we again see a flood pant. The exposed ankle prevents the wearer from feeling too grounded, communicating at a simple level a sense of awareness and quick response. The diagonal lines of argyle help to emphasize this point. The way which the plaid shirt flares out helps to balance the fantastic caplet, which would otherwise make the outfit look a bit top heavy and clumsy. Also, pointy hats are always fun.

In all of these outfits strong allusions to the archetypical men’s outfit – the suit – are made through fabric, form, and detail. This allows Browne to take much larger creative liberties while playing with male proportions. I doubt that his explorations would have been so successful had he ditched this strong connection to traditional menswear.

Outside of proportions, I love Browne’s continuing discussion on men’s gender issues. This show rather literally demonstrated the constraint of men. The above piece can be viewed either as a man who is too tied up in his own masculinity to achieve a full expression of himself or, the reverse, a man who is too tied up by today’s hatred of masculinity to achieve full expression of himself. Obviously, this show hit right on cue with the exploration of Vanguard.

Lastly, I thought I’d leave you with a quote by Thom Browne that was stolen from style.com. This, again, shows the extreme relevancy of Browne to the goals of Vanguard.

"I don't know what the future of men's fashion will be like. I just hope that everyone does their own thing… Because that is what I'm going to do."

San Francisco Street - Meet Houman

2008-11-03T02:50:00.000-08:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Meeting new, innovate men is always a huge inspiration for me. This week, Houman was visiting from New York. I had the pleasure of meeting him at the Harput’s Market afterparty for the Arts of Fashion week. Luckily we hit it off and spent the entire next afternoon loitering in bus stops and hitting up nearly every thrift store between the Mission and SoMa. This naturally resulted in me producing two very heavy bags (but happily spending under $40). Houman was even so friendly to assist me in dragging a dresser down the block. Thank god.

What I find particularly motivating about Houman’s style is that every detail has been thought out and altered in some way. Whereas I usually recommend layering edgy pieces among a foundation of basics (with the intent of finding a way to balance strong expression and at least a little social acceptability), Houman goes all out – just f***ing owning it, no questions asked. The key here seems to be to question everything for every garment. Not only is the fit of each item pushed, but the details too. Notice the off-white blouse. Designed, to be skewed at the bottom, it also features shoulder pads, unusual buttons and collar, while also being a fabric not traditionally used in menswear. This idea of questioning everything is used throughout, allowing no single piece to beacon towards the ordinary: the fit of the pants are altered, the shoes are ridiculously amazing, his jacket creates unique proportions, and even the wrap he wears over the jacket maintains a dramatic sense.

One thing I found particularly interesting while shopping with Houman was when he made a brief statement about how he avoids studying trend and prefers developing his own personal style outside of it. This is something I think a lot about. Many people try to avoid trend, but trend has such implications in both fashion and culture - whether you are an underground avant-guardian or a mainstream mall shopper - that I wonder if it is truly possible for anyone to move themselves outside of it. It does remind me, however, of Walter Van Beirendonck who commonly states that his priority is developing his own artistic style, and how that means sometimes being in style and sometimes being out of style. Granted, I think Houman was talking about smaller trend specifics while Van Beirendonck was looking at the larger picture, but I wanted somewhere to bring this topic up.

Meeting guys like Houman reminds me that pushing your fashion expression is a job that is never finished: everyone keeps growing, maturing, and changing and suddenly there is a new style bar to reach…it also reminds me that I have a lot of shopping to do.

San Francisco Street - Halloween

2008-11-01T21:05:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

It appears that there is even a way for those in the vanguard to dress for Halloween. The above costume is both intellectual and striking. The subject is dressed as a character from his favorite artist’s work. His chosen influence, Günter Brus, is a Viennese Actionist artist known for portraying ideas of self-mutilation. This is definitely a costume worth explaining to every drunken asshole and was by far the most creative of what could be seen on the streets of San Francisco this year.

Does that ink stream look like a cross between Raf Simons for Jil Sanders suits and the YSL ink splatter knits to anyone else?

Runway - Y-3: Fall 2008

2008-10-31T20:30:00.000-07:00

As the warning signs of winter start to descend upon San Francisco, that means it’s time to start looking hard at keeping warm (and keeping the rain off our shoulders). But in moments of economic terror, how can we translate affordable basics into something exceptional without it growing dull as the season drags on.

This winter’s Y-3 line took a lot directly from the Yohji Yamamoto runway, but scaled it down to be more wearable and functional. In particular, we saw a few ways to take a very basic jacket and easily make it exceptional yet attainable at any budget.

Essentially there is nothing extraordinary about the coats being worn throughout this post and they are simply taking advantage of the pashmina trend we’ve seen again and again. What we can learn, however, is the method of drape and the use of color and pattern. Through these we see unexpected stimulation created by using the same fabric or color in your scarf as in your jacket. In the plaid version, we see the same lesson we learned in the Yohji Yamamoto line: plaid emphasizes drape.

Lastly, sharp contrasts in colors (here we have white against black against neon) as well as unexpected juxtaposition of geometries (note how the draped piece merge into a square that then contrasts against a loose coat) as further, easy ways to avoid the drudgery of winter outerwear.

San Francisco Street - A Little Grunge Goes a Long Way

2008-10-30T02:08:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Playing with pant fit is a strong way for men to set themselves apart right now. Gone are the days when a simple slim fit would emphasize an individual perspective. Fuller pants, tapered pants, high waists, and exaggerated pleats are only a few of the many ways guys can do something more with their lower half. When going with larger pant silhouettes, however, make sure to maintain a slim silhouette on top to avoid looking frumpy.

Distressing is something that’s difficult to pull off as there is a lot of association with distressed garments and mainstream mall shoppers. The way that distressing is executed in the shirt above, however, is not only successful, but also adds a lot of interest. This is because of the direct contrast between distressed elements and structured elements; note how the fragile holes are placed beside a heavy and stiff collar. An important element here too, that would allow the outfit to contain additional gender-bending elements, is the cut of the shirt. The lines of the sleeve and suspenders provide a masculine edge by emphasizing the chest and shoulder.

Runway - Miharayasuhiro: Fall 2008

2008-10-27T23:18:00.000-07:00

There is no doubt that the manipulation of pashminas was a major theme in this fall’s shows. In menswear, however, these scarves largely stayed detached from clothing – maintaining their accessory status – and were simply draped, tied an layered in unusual ways. Miharayasuhiro was the only men’s line who used the idea of manipulating the pashmina to create new pieces (this was done by several designers in women’s clothing, but the inspirational translation seems to have been lost over the gender line). The above is the designers most successful use of this theme. What appears to be a draped pashmina seamlessly morphs into the neck and collar of a shirt. We maintain typical shirt sleeves and proportions, but the diagonal draping across the front combined with a nicely balanced mass of draping around the neck creates a stately and dramatic assertion.

The draping of this jacket is exquisite. The jacket has a typical, structured base. The planes of this base, however, have been extended and enlarged to create a more exuberant form also based on the pashmina. The structure in the shoulders, the cuffs, and the collared shirt is essential to grounding the design in masculinity and allows everything else to be unexpected and fantastical.

This outfit, although just a basic pair of pants and a jacket, should be appreciated due to its careful attention to proportion and detailing. The skinny pants create a slight contrast to the jacket. The jacket ends just above the bottom of the crotch while the pants are slightly shortened. When the above ideas are combined, it’s give an overall bounce to the outfit, almost a sense of optimism. Seriousness, however, is undoubtedly the focus of the design. This is mainly seen through its black color and the severe buttoning of the jacket. A small detail important in emphasizing this severity is a particularly wide plane let open between the top rows of buttons going up to the neck. This is slightly larger than normally seen on coats, and makes all the difference. When finished off with a double-buttoned neck piece, which seems almost to choke the wearer, it forms a wonderful sense of gravity. In all respect, we are getting a bit far into details, but the details here happen to affect the overall perception of this outfit while allowing it to be read as at once serious and playful.

Apron-front shirts were used rather heavily by several designers for this fall (we’ll see more in upcoming posts). Here we see a similar idea in a leather jacket. Note also how the jacket slightly bells below the waist and at the cuffs and how the collar is draped and gathered. Not only does this create an interesting shape, but this treatment of the leather allows it to be read at once as a thick armor and also as sumptuous and fragile.

San Francisco Street - Black & White

2008-10-18T02:17:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Analyzing Shane's outfits always provide a fantastic lesson (and doing so could be a life's career in itself). Here he is wearing a hip-exposing, sheer lace unitard, a highly ruffled jacket, and gobbs of silver bangles. As typical with Shane's wardrobe, these pieces are all women's, yet he maintains the perfect degree of masculinity. Granted, much of his being able to pull of some of his clothes lies within his personality but it is also just as much how he wears each article. The sheerness of the top exposes the male form (we've talked about exposure a few times now) while, in sharp contrast, the high-rise hip alludes to traditionally female erogeny. To balance out this rather bold statement, the unitard is covered by black jeans and ankle boots that seem to have a men's 'rock and roll' perception. The jacket helps to ground the unitard by covering feminine-cut shoulders while the black color and long tendrels of the jacket actually disguises the ruffles and allows it to appear instead as an irregular scarf. The braclets unexpectly make the overall look more masculine by adding visual weight to exposed arms. A black and white color scheme allows a rather complicated outfit to be easily read and understood. Overall, as always, Shane shows us how men can wear an entire outfit of women's pieces without a hint of looking like a tranny. Splendid.

Fletch, of Litter MB, uses white to contrast and emphasis his otherwise hidden tattoos. Distressed styling is a frequent and easily used form of expression for men, but it is important to always maintain at least one element that allows passersby to know that you are not actually a hobo. Here, the color white is that element as it allows everyone to know that you can, indeed, afford to wash your clothes.

Eric is a fantastic mentor for any man looking to put something new into his dress without going as extreme or overboard as many of the images we feature (in case drapped ponchos, leggings, and lacey unitards aren't your style). Here, he has taken typical men's pieces (maintaining a level of social acceptability perhaps not allowed for by previously mentioned items) but every single piece is altered in order to create a look that is read as anything but ordinary. The blazer features unique - but subtle - fabric treatments and detailing. The scarf incorporates heavy fringe. The pants expose the ankle. Meanwhile the oxfords are treated to a metallic finish and brought to a point.

Terry T is always a huge inspiration for me as gender expectations play little to no part in the way he dresses, allowing him complete creative liberties. His attitude is only for the brave and is truely something to be admired. Seeming to be almost the reverse of Shane, Terry T wears mainly men's clothing but he uses his styling to feminize them. Emphasized ruffles, makeup, and jewlery are some of the elements that do so. Meanwhile other focal elements (facial hair, eyebrow shape, and footwear) leaves no one to question that this is a man who knows exactly what he is doing.

Global Street - Altamira NYC

2008-10-08T21:44:00.000-07:00

The following images from Altamira NYC.

I have been regularly following the blog, Altamira NYC, for quite some time now. In the past couple of months, however, I have noticed a radical shift: Altamira has dramatically upgraded. Formerly it was - although very well done - just another New York street fashion blog (good style of course, but exactly how much Sartorialist-type fashion can we look at?). Recently its blogger, Craig, has shifted to featuring world-class street fashion that is truly worthy of any avant-guardian’s daily attention. Let’s pray he keeps up the amazing work.

I think the photos speak for themselves.

Runway - Obedient Sons: Fall 2008

2008-10-06T01:12:00.000-07:00

When viewing the Obedient Sons show, it seemed like the designers were really producing nothing new, yet, it also seemed as though what they had created is fundamentally different from everything else this season. This is a dichotomy that many men may wish to achieve (standing out while really not putting yourself too far out there). So what are the exact elements used in this line that allow the ensembles to blend as nothing abnormal, yet still extraordinary?

First, it starts with the fit. In each ensemble shown, most of the elements feature a fairly typical fit while one or two pieces appear either over or undersized. The exaggerated elements (such as a coat or shorts) will set you apart, while having pieces that stick with the standard provide you with a basis in reality. This is distinctly different from more traditionally avant-garde lines, take for instance Yohji Yamamoto, which may exaggerate the fit of every piece in an ensemble.

Second, it’s about detailing. Overall, there is a slight minimalist view going on. Any details that are maintained within this minimalism are skewed just slightly. Note a distortion in the necklines, hat shapes, glove fits and pant cuffing. None of these changes are particularly breath taking or attention grabbing, yet appear different.

Third, color is an important element. Notice how there appears to be little contrast. Even though colors do vary within each outfit, differences in value are kept to a minimum or are downplayed through texture and shadows.

Lastly, material quality is important. The slight minimalism, described above, creates large and uninterrupted planes of fabric. This allows for a canvas to display unusual sheens and unexpectedly weighty materials that allow ordinary menswear pieces to be seen in a new light.

Although “standing out without really standing out” may seem a bit passive for many trailblazers of men’s fashion, it can be a beacon for many men wishing for a chance to express themselves while not necessarily alienating themselves from the lager population. Thus, even if lines like Obedient Sons may seem to do little for the history and progress of menswear, they do provide a needed and safe outlet for many guys.

San Francisco Street - Today's 70s Inspiration

2008-10-04T02:13:00.000-07:00

Photos by Vanguard - San Francisco

Remember how, in the 90s, we were obsessed with the 1970s. Somehow, men managed to pull all of the worst things from the era – polyester, loud prints, unflattering colors, and exaggerated detailing – and thoroughly integrate them into their wardrobe. Luckily, the last few years have allowed us to purge all of those bad ideas (never again will we wear a fabric that doesn’t breathe) so that we can look at that era with new eyes while searching for ideas that may have true relevancy and show real innovation in the men’s realm.

Tyson is a great example of how to take inspiration from the 70s without degrading yourself in cheap fabrics and prints. Here, he has grabbed and amazing cut and silhouette. We see a highly evolved (and might we add, slightly suggestive) bellbottom that, although subtle, sets him apart from every other man on the street. This outfit happens to also connect closely to our exploration of Marc Jacobs’ leggings in the post below; the cut of these bellbottoms provides another alternative to those who depend on the lean-bottomed silhouette. (View more photos of Tyson at Garbage Dress)

Whereas Tyson is finding new inspiration in shapes from the 70s, the outfit above retains the inspiration we have taken since the 1990s (prints, colors, details) but digs deeper in order to interpret these ideas in a new and much more tasteful way for today’s men. The colors he has chosen are subtle yet, in our current world of neutrals and monochromacy, are still just as bold as the neon pastels used in the 90s. His print is less space-disco and more historically patterned. His fabrics maintain the textural philosophies of the 70s (nubby juxtaposed against satin) but does so in natural and luxurious fabrics rather than those made by man to imitate the natural and luxurious. Finally, his details (seen in his bag and accessories) have the whimsy of 1970s, but with an intellect not found during the 90s.

Later on in Vanguard, we will be discussing historicism and its role in contemporary menswear as well as whether or not something truly avant-garde can borrow from the past. For now, however, let us consider this lesson: let’s learn from our past mistakes of taking from former time periods. Rather than pursuing and mass-producing cheap take-offs of motifs that will, in retrospect (no pun intended), make us look clownish and overdone, let’s view history with a more intellectual eye and take from it pieces that will enrich where we stand today. In a current period that seems to be drowning in ideas taken from the 1980s, the relevancy of this lesson can not be exaggerated.

Runway - Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc: Fall 2008

2008-09-29T01:42:00.000-07:00

Although I’m not typically a huge fan of Marc Jacobs’ menswear lines (how can such a genius with women’s clothing play it so safe with men?), this last season did offer guys a few fantastic options that take us a bit beyond the classics.

Leggings and tights have been pushed on men quite a bit in the past few seasons. We have recently seen them all over the runway from mainstream cores (such as Calvin Klein) to the avant-garde grunge (such as John Galliano). For obvious reasons, men do not yet feel comfortable in such revealing pieces. The saturation of men’s super-skinny jeans has allowed us to enter into the world of slender bottoms that re-expose a piece of the true male form. But what happens after you’ve become addicted to a willowy silhouette, but are sick being confused for an emotional young suburbanite due to your skin tight denim? Marc Jacobs has provided us with the perfect next step without forcing us to start shopping in women’s hosiery: long underwear essentially glorified to outerwear status through Jacobs’ typical us of luxe materials and evolved cuts. Although, definitely not a piece for men who are still hesitant about anything that’s not baggy, it does provide another choice for those growing beyond skinny jeans.

This addition of thick leggings provides more options for executing the “skinny on the bottom, big on top” silhouette while ensuring that our every desire for comfortably indulging in a gloomy winter day has been met. Note how, although essentially wearing skin-tight long underwear, the above outfit still looks badass due to the heavy bulkiness created from large pieces on top. A word of warning, as any man well-submerged in the peg legged pants would give, is that footwear will require a bit of forethought. Even some of the most streamlined men’s shoes can look chunky and awkward once suddenly exposed to a narrow ankle. Before planning on wearing such an outfit, ensure your closet contains a particularly slim pair of shoes (test your pairs at home by seeing if they look good when worn without socks) or, even easier, a pair of boots ranging anywhere from angle to knee height will get the job done.

Lastly, please make sure that your top maintains the correct proportions. Not only does the “big on top” part require your sweater to drop below your hip line in order to pull off the look, but, depending on the cut of your new leggings, a longer shirt may also offer an appreciated bit of coverage. Vanguard doesn’t, after all, want to start having to recommend undergarments that include dance belts and tube socks.

In his more playful Marc line, we see Jacobs becoming a tad more experimental, particularly with men’s proportions. Sometimes, knickers can appear a bit flighty; here bold stripes provide weight, especially when combined with heavy socks that join with shoes to create an anchor for the outfit. Exposed socks can be a bit difficult to pull off, but can be worth the effort if you want an alternative to boots for this Fall.

The above outfit is particularly interesting as it can be viewed almost as a proportion study of men’s overalls (notice Shane’s overalls in the post below to further view these proportions). Observe how, although not actually overalls (the bottom of the shirt is simply the same color of the pants), the outfit does creates a similar breaking point between the chest and waist that adds a lot of visual weight below this point. To keep the outfit from becoming frumpy and shapeless, the waist retains a subtle definition while an open focal jacket creates a strong vertical line. Meanwhile, knicker-length pants keep the bottom from becoming disproportionately heavy. Again, the knickers are anchored with heavy socks.

San Francisco Street - Taking a Second Look

2008-09-24T23:47:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Even before having the pleasure of viewing Shane’s outfits on a near-daily basis, I had known of his reputation of being able to wear things in ways that others would not think to. Being able to see him regularly, however, would inspire anyone to view clothing differently: to take a second look at what they see and to perceive pieces beyond face value.

This outfit is a classic example of how Shane works with the concept of the second look. Here, Shane is wearing overalls, a cropped jacket, and a shear shirt – all pieces that any man of the new Millennium would probably avoid while passing them on a shopping rack. Yet, Shane has looked at them, he has embraced them, and he has put them together in a way that is thoroughly original, completely modern, and removes the clothing from how its standard perception. By doing so, he has breathed new life into the usually avoided.

This boy, like Shane, also takes a second look at the typically ignored, but does so on a smaller scale. Whereas Shane is conquering pieces that would be avoided because of their overall essence (such as their cut and concept), this subway-rider pursues pieces that would be looked over due to their details (bleach washed jeans, paisley prints) while also viewing pieces of everyday life as possible embellishment.

San Francisco Street - Let's Go Out Tonight

2008-09-15T01:53:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Tony (above) is a continual source of inspiration. By designing and sewing his entire outfit himself he has integrated many typically female elements (batwing sleeves, short shorts, and stockings) into an extremely masculine and even dark ensemble. The use of geometric elements, exposure of the male form, contrast of textures, and dark colors allow an assembly that could easily have been ridiculous to instead become something deep, edgy, and masculine. Topping of the outfit on either end with a baseball cap and sneakers keeps it boyish and charming.

Here, the hair is important. Perhaps difficult to tell from the photo – no matter how charismatic it may be – the sides are buzzed short while the top is left long and, for lack of better terms, stringy. This has a 90s industrial vibe to it, which will be taking fashion by storm.

Normally I would be against ironic and trendy facial hair as it all too-typically used as a way for guys to grab a few laughs and attention. Here, however, it is seamlessly blended in as part of the overall style without demanding much attention to itself. Also perfectly executed is the large hair and the glasses. All of these are elements typical to the faddish hipster, but the stylish guy above manages to integrate them as a part of his personal and tasteful style by making them appear natural and appropriate rather than forced.

Looking at the guy on the left, we see a lot of nostalgic irony between the jacket, t-shirt, and black socks with brown shoes. All of these pull together nicely. Although we have been living in a decade of fitted clothing for men, larger pieces like the denim jacket can be a nice way to easily and casually create a unique silhouette. The guy on the right is ironic in ways that are most likely unintentional, but feel free to pull any inspiration that you may find from him as well.

I’m still not sure how I feel about arm warmers. John Varvatos has recently been diligent in introducing them into his line, but I’m also not sure how I feel about John Varvatos. What I do know, however, is that I have a strange inkling towards wanting to wear them, they would be considered a new piece to introduce into the male wardrobe (something Vanguard is always looking for), and they are a much better idea than leg warmers on men. The above ensemble exercises arm warmers correctly by pairing them with a sleeveless knit poncho. Here, they give the arms the extra visual weight needed to balance out the heavy, sleeveless garment.

Want to wear Grandma’s costume jewelry (who doesn’t) without being reminded of those awkward childhood dress-up moments? Juxtapose typical female pieces (large ring, sequin hat) directly against typical symbols of manhood (facial hair, suit coat) and just make sure you have an attitude to match.

San Francisco Street - Let's Think about Footwear

2008-09-10T22:01:00.001-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Shoes are always an integral part of an outfit and can make or break the idea you want to communicate about yourself. Many men, even the most fashionable, tend to stick to a generic shoe for any ensemble. If an outfit has many other particular points of emphasis it can be fine to select a “classic” or generic neutral shoe so as not to distract from the greater emphasis of the ensemble. On the other hand, if a rather minimal outfit is put together, an exemplary shoe can be used as a point of emphasis. In any case, the shoes should flow with the rest of what is pieced together and support the overall concept. The point is this: think about your shoes.

The following are examples of where footwear takes a stylish outfit further, making it unique and distinctive.

Between the liquid-y metallic shoes and the velvet bow tie, it is clear that the above outfit is also about material quality. Not only do we have a contrast of materials and textures between items, but also a play on the expected use of materials and textures within individual items.

Shopping - Oak

2008-09-10T00:22:00.001-07:00

Shopping is something that is obviously related to the overall vision of Vanguard (articles of clothing have to come from somewhere) but so far has not been brought up. This is because fashion battles the issue of promoting unsustainable consumerism. Obviously this then also creates a battle for a blog promoting individual expression through the use of fashion. We do try to assist the lifestyle that many intelligent and socially responsible citizens are actively pursuing. Much of the street fashion shown on Vanguard is purchased second hand; this makes it not only sustainable but also affordable. Much of the runway wear is constructed to last more than one lifetime, requiring clothing to be purchased less often, and thus also being sustainable in certain viewpoints. However, the everyday person probably doesn’t have time to rummage through Goodwill and may not have the money to invest in something off the runway. This leaves them in the large world of unsustainable consumers. Although environmentally smart clothing is being designed more and more every day it is still only a small fraction of the retail environment.

Vanguard recognizes the importance of responsible consumption, and plans to integrate socially conscious fashion where applicable, but must make the exploration of expression for every man our primary mission. Thus, online shopping recommendations will be integrated into Vanguard but we encourage readers to consume wisely.

Our first recommendation would be the well-known New York boutique, Oak. Although most of the prices may be a bit steep for people living outside inflated urban centers and although their most recent collection doesn’t seem to quite live up to the cutting-edge reputation Oak has created for themselves, it is still an excellent source to find unique and expressive items. Meanwhile, their frequently updated and stylish website makes their product easily accessible to anyone.

The following is Vanguard’s recommendations for Oak’s current online merchandise:

Y-3 Zipped Double Sneaker Boot

B.Son Side Button Mock Pullover

Complex Geometries White Square Hood Tee

Diesel Black Gold Kosis Pullover with Shawl Neck

Carlos Campos Bondage Tuxedo Vest

Phillip Lim Harem Pant

3:33 Leather Floppy

Unconditional Black Cutout Crew Neck Sweater

Y-3 Twill Tech Pant

Yigal Azrouel VJ Top

YMC Side Laced Boot

San Francisco Street - Shane in South Park

2008-09-08T23:34:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

When I ran into Shane in South Park and asked to take his photo he replied “but I’m dressed so boring today.” After taking street fashion photos for over two years now, I recognized this as the usual humble reply similar to “but I’m horrible with photos” or “but I didn’t even put on a stitch of makeup” and shrugged it off as such. Little did I know that, with Shane, his comment was actually accurate. The next day Zana showed me her pictures that depict Shane in his typical ensembles created of found and modified pieces that seemingly cross gender lines. With such creativity, Shane is easily inspiration for anyone willing to work outside the box. Meanwhile his daily nonchalant demeanor suggests that his outfits are nothing out of the ordinary. See more pictures of Shane on Zana’s blog, Garbage Dress.

Despite this outfit being a far cry from the regular possibilities of Shane’s wardrobe, it still puts even the most innovative dressers to shame and thus we have a lot to learn from it. What’s most striking is the white button down. This seems to be almost the reverse of Tony’s back-cropped dress shirt on our previous post discussing the exposure of the male body. Here, Shane uses the cropping to create contrast layering that allows the outfit to become striking through its unusual proportions. Like Tony’s shirt, however, only half of it is cropped; here, the back maintains the proportions typical to the men’s classic shirt or reminiscent of a waistcoat. This grounds the piece as a men’s item. The unusual proportions created by the shirt are further exaggerated by the shortened sleeves and the use of black in his pants and t-shirt – allowing his torso and lower-body to be read as one line – and skinny jeans. Combined this has the overall affect of lengthening his body and exaggerating his leanness.

What is also particularly interesting is his use of generic eyewear and handbag. Today’s fashion seems to be overly dependant on distracting, and typically tacky, cost-inflated accessories. Shane creates a statement and puts the emphasis back onto himself by using outmoded pieces (or vintage 90s pieces, depending on your outlook) that seem to demonstrate the irrelevance of label fads.

Runway - Fendi: Fall 08

2008-09-06T00:22:00.000-07:00

Large corporate fashion labels face the challenge of maintaining a certain balance with menswear. First, they must not be too adventurous so that they overly challenge their regular customers or alienate themselves from the mainstream. While, on the other side, they must be progressive and different enough to set their brand apart within the sea of retail. Most of the time, in an attempt to create the proper balance, this works against any man trying to be different. It produces results that rely on the same pieces, but change the color, material, texture, or detailing just enough to make them look new to the undiscriminating eye. If we’re lucky, perhaps they evolve the fit a little bit. In certain seasons, however, it is clear that these labels are in higher competition as the balance gets pushed more towards progress and traditional menswear is much more heavily questioned. Fall 2008, so far, has shown us a glimmer of this balance push.

When the balance shifts to progress, even runway shows that in previous years may not have been any more interesting than the latest Banana Republic line, suddenly become relevant in the design spectrum. Already, we’ve looked at examples of forward-thinking pieces in the Armani lines. Here, we see innovation within Fendi.

Although cutting-edge and avant-garde designers, like we’ve seen with Walter Van Beirendonck, create the pieces that are saved in museums, published in books, and will inspire young designers for years to come. Major lines, however, like we’ve seen with Armani and Fendi, can be excellent examples for customers and designers who want to create something new without facing ridicule on the street or in office. While artistic designers have challenged and reshaped clothing to become a powerful statement of our social state, corporate designers have challenged their teams of office-bound brand directors to do the legwork for us: pumping just the right amount of expression into a piece without straying too far from the typical man’s comfort level. Although they may not deserve the artistic esteem of other designers, credit should be provided where it is earned.

What this musing comes down to is a simple recognition of the relevancy of major corporate labels in the realm of the avant-garde…but only when the balance of these labels is shifted towards competitive progress rather than profit-making through mediocrity.

Eat up this balance shift on the runway of Fall 2008 as I doubt we’ll see the same for Spring.

San Francisco Street - Sunday in the Park

2008-09-01T15:14:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Global Street - Manila

2008-08-28T00:39:00.000-07:00

Images from (Mostly) Manila Style

If we’ve learned anything from the past half decade of the street fashion phenomenon, it’s that the best examples usually come from the most unlikely (and possibly unknown) cities. Manila, the capital of the Philippines, is one of those places. Its local street blog, (Mostly) Manila Style, is a great source for deconstructed, ripped, shredded, and draped menswear combining designer labels with d.i.y. torn up thrift store finds.

Runway - Reconsidering Armani - Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani: Fall 2008

2008-08-27T00:48:00.000-07:00

Giorgio Armani is hardly in the minds of anyone seeking something different, much less avant-garde. Although his name was once synonymous with innovation in menswear, it has now been commercialized into a multi-billion dollar global franchise including everything from teeny-bopper mall stores to hotels and coffee shops. Wildly consumed by the mainstream, it seems there would be nothing left to see by those looking for something distinctive. However, searching carefully at his runway shows we can find hints of that revolutionary eye still quietly at work as well as many lessons to learn of where menswear can tread.

For the sake of education, let’s pretend to ignore the 90s detailing, the color palatte that’s just a little bit off, the overly happy models, and the large corporation. Let’s carefully avert our eyes from what we assume to see. Let’s study individual pieces. We will see that Armani is not yet done reinventing what men should wear.

In the two images above we see a common piece that has been imprisoning men for over a century and a half: the suit and blazer. This piece is the archetype of professionalism and, unfortunately for most men, must be worn in order to be taken seriously and to progress towards their goals at some point in their life. It’s a symbol; yet, it is unflattering, disproportionate, and lacks any possibility to communicate individuality. Although Armani is a perpetrator in the continuation of the suit through his previous invention of the “power suit,” here he has served his time by reinventing the piece to meet the needs his previous models forgot. Both jackets represent better proportions, flatter the body, and express the individual. Both also re-imagine elements – be it a draped neckline or a method of fastening – to show a different personal viewpoint. Yet, both maintain a precise number of elements to maintain the symbol of a “suit” in order to not hinder the wearer during less-than-progressive social situations.

We’re going to pretend the fur arm-warmers on the above ensemble never happened. Look at the coat. Contrast between textures and geometry make this a particularly interesting piece. Note the subtly draped neck line juxtaposed with the rigid front panel. See the asymmetrical zipper and the pleasing proportions. Armani has created a new coat.

Fall 2008 menswear could aptly be summarized as “101 ways to wear a pashmina.” Armani is one of the few designers this season, however to actually rethink the shawl both in its construct and in how it’s worn. below, pulling both from his Emporio Armani and his Giorgio Armani lines, we see either the addition of a heavily striated texture (making it more rough and masculine) or the careful matching of the pattern and fabric weight with a sweater to downplay the scarf and thereby allowing the pair to blend as a single piece.

A wrap is a very simple and safe way for the average man to express something different in his wardrobe: it can be added on top of any other pieces he already owns and can be removed over the course of the day so that he may blend into various situations. No risks even for the stuffiest dresser.Ok, this is a tough one. Ignore the blue cow print…just try really hard. Look at how the collar is draped. Armani is hardly the first to place a draped collar and lapel on a leather coat, but he is one of the first to make such a thing readily available for men across the world. Should we give him credit for this?
If we place two older pieces together (in the above a parka and a trench coat) do we create something new?

San Francisco Street

2008-08-26T00:10:00.000-07:00

Image by Vanguard - San Francisco

What’s fantastic about Bradley is that he dresses to emphasize the leanness of his body. We see this from his fitted knits to his narrow short shorts and even to the lines of his sandals that exaggerate the length of his legs. Although, without a doubt, designer fashion in the last few years has been pushing a leaner and learner male figure similar to Bradley’s, much of what is worn today still seems to force men into one 'ideal' body type.

This is commonly a point of discussion and harsh critique of the women’s fashion industry, yet fashion and the male body image is rarely commented on.

As any salesperson quickly learns, the women’s clothing section provides a multitude of carefully designed options in order to compliment different body types and proportions. This is in stark contrast to men’s fashion which usually assumes that every man has the same body type or, at least, wants to look like they have the same body type as every other man. Oddly enough, the designated men’s shape tends to be rather boxy. Now, as the fitted and tailored clothing of the European man is entering the American man’s wardrobe, we can begin to see that most men are a bit leaner and even more shapely than previous decades hinted at. But just one glance around the men’s locker room (try not to appear creepy) will show you that men have variations in figures that range just as great as women. So why, while women are provided with a variety of shapes, lines, and proportions in their clothing to help them be comfortable with their individual body type, do we use just one suit to fit every male form?

Runway - Dries Van Noten: Fall 2008

2008-08-25T00:14:00.000-07:00

Dries Van Noten, this season, provided us with a wide variety of pieces that are all easy to wear and darkly artistic while walking a line between severe and soft. Overall, the show was rich while fabrics appeared unusually light and flowing for menswear.

Layers and layers of light, rich fabrics hang gracefully from the man. This outfit creates a feeling of delicacy while layers add depth and dark colors keep it solemn. Pattern is introduced asymmetrically almost as a way to create the sense of another layer on the bottom half of the ensemble. What is fantastic about this season is that silk is being reintroduced into menswear through pieces extending beyond shirts. Here it creates a dark, yet airy statement as pants. As we saw in the Alexander McQueen post, multiple waistlines are introduced to create interesting yet flattering proportions.

The show has many pieces that allow you to appear serious, while introducing color, pattern, and soft fabrics. A billowy and intricate scarf is a simple way to do this. Note how the colors are used: they are saturated and complex; rather than lime green, use avocado; rather than royal blue, use midnight blue; and rather than white, use ivory. This careful use of color creates an embellished but serious look.

This piece, although needing to be better executed in detail and color, is a good inspiration point for a new menswear item. The bulkiness expresses masculinity while the use of a typical sweater as a reference point makes it easy to wear. Let’s hope to see this better thought out in future shows.

This is a breeze to recreate at multiple price points. Simple garments can be purchased, a size or two too big, to create a dramatic statement. Just make sure proportions are correct and that you’re not completely swimming in the piece. In the above example, it’s important to have the coat severely buttoned to the top to maintain a sense of purposefulness in the overly large sizing.

San Francisco Street - Black in the Bay

2008-08-23T14:08:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

Black on black on black. Black can be a surprisingly difficult color to pull off, if not executed properly it can look cheap or overused. If used correctly, it looks rich, deep, and will set you apart from everyone else on the street. Morgan, above, shows us how to do this the right way. Everything is in proper fit. The blacks play against each other through subtle contrasts in texture. The materials are rich. What makes this outfit the most successful, however, is the range of interested created. This means that not only is the silhouette perfect from a distance, but as we move closer we find details hidden within the darkness: we see a subtle cummerbund, interesting stitching, and a variety of leathers.

A sleek silhouette is further enhanced by sleek hair. It’s hard to pull off a black ruffled shirt post-Ricky Martin, but here it works. The trick here is to integrate it into a dark ensemble (allowing the ruffles to create the range of interested described in the outfit above), buttoning it severely to the top, and finishing it with a nice detail.

Last winter we saw the introduction of high-sheen black nylon. It was cool, but it descended on us like a swarm of locusts. So, as fashion goes, this made it immediately un-cool. This jacket successfully reintroduces black sheen nylon by avoiding the extremely high-gloss of last season. This brings an important texture back into play.

A dark tank in a dark club on ever-chic pale skin means instant attention. The slender straps on the tank are essential. The little bit of skin at the ankle is great.

Farewell, Manhattan

2008-08-21T23:14:00.000-07:00

Vanguard has left New York and is now officially based in San Francisco. We will still be covering street and runway fashion from around the globe but look forward to exploring the individuality and expression that can only be found on the streets of San Francisco.

This means amazing things for Vanguard.

Runway - Bottega Veneta: Fall 2008

2008-08-20T22:27:00.000-07:00

Bottega Veneta is known for their exquisitely tailored suits made with gorgeous material and an iconic pointed shoulder – which they continued in their Fall show – but they started out this season a bit differently.

Baggy, oversized, generic, bland, and uniform-like … but in a good way.

The fit and minimalism are obvious, but I think the true key to making these outfits avant-garde is their color tone: bland, bland, dusty, dull, and bland.

…but in a good way.

Outfits like these are great because they say “I’m unique and fashionable, but there is a good chance I might actually be straight.” These ensembles are easy to wear, yet they create no doubt that you’re unique.

NYC Street - Considering Masculinity at Starbucks

2008-08-17T15:28:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - New York

The main premise of this blog is to explore ways for men to assert their individual expression through fashion while still maintaining a “masculine” appearance. So far, however, we have not asked what is “masculinity” and if/why it’s important. Also, what happens if you don’t really care? I think the best way to begin exploring these questions is through the amazing style of my favorite Starbucks barista in New York (I’ve had to quit Starbucks since moving to localtarian San Francisco. It's for the best.).

One of the most important lessons I’ve learned in life is that if you’re confident in who you are and what you’re doing, nobody is going to give you any shit for it. The outfit put together above does not attempt to be masculine, instead, it makes fun of masculinity and allows the wearer to appear as though they are beyond caring about such things. Irony is used with typical icons of masculinity; we see cowboy boots and cut-off muscle tees. The combination of these icons, however, with shorts and a “Miss Slut” t-shirt creates a direct blow at the expectations of men’s fashion. A striking and individual attitude takes this image to an important level.

Beyond Fashion - Body Modification at BMEZine

2008-08-16T14:38:00.000-07:00

Images from BMEZine ModBlog.

Looking for a more extreme way to represent yourself? Check out the BMEZine ModBlog. This place explores any body modification from nose rings to self-amputations. Just avoid clicking on the censored pics unless your stomach (and your manhood) is strong.

Runway - Alexander McQueen Fall 2008

2008-08-13T23:27:00.000-07:00

This season was supposed to be inspired by McQueen’s journey to India; so, for now, we’ll take his word and ignore the unfortunate similarities to Missoni’s fall 2005 collection pictured to the right. The asymmetry in the above piece is very important (despite the sleeve being a tad too long for proper balance). McQueen attempted several pieces with similar elements (heavy fabrics draped with slightly belled sleeves over structured garments), but the use of symmetry created a rather dorky and unusually feminine 80s prom look.

Although this piece above does feature the symmetry previously warned about it is still successful. The method of draping grounds it as a man’s piece. Unlike other garments we’ve seen on the runway so far on Vanguard, this one is based on a typical piece (the cardigan) but then features draped adaptations that are created more from folding than from actually draping. The edge of the piece is also the emphasis of the drape, grounding it in masculinity and seriousness. Proportions are also important here. The length of the sweater shows an avant-garde attitude while the sash worn at the waist allows the overall look to remain serious. Although not recommended by Vanguard, the tilted cowboy hat will help make you look badass.
This is a very simple way to express yourself at the work place without getting too many nasty glances. Put on a typical business casual outfit; throw over it a draped open-neck sweater. The traditional men’s clothing underneath grounds the outfit in masculinity and professionalism while the simple drape will set you apart as “the creative guy.” I wish offices weren’t so boring for men.

Dear dread-headed hippie youngsters. We love you and all that you represent. But please update that overdone hemp poncho for something a bit more new-millennium, such as the above piece. The world would be so beautiful.

NYC Street - Nightime at Union Square

2008-08-10T21:10:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - New York

Expression should not be dependent on high cost, this season’s runway, and designer labels. It also does not require wearing loud or impractical clothing. The above outfit is simple, can be attained at any price level, is easy to wear, and yet it is a strong statement about the person who is wearing it. Black skin-tight jeans. Black boots. White t-shirt. Black bag. Black aviators. It’s minimalist, it has attitude. Key pieces are the accessories and the haircut, which also are not cost or brand dependant. This man stands out in a crowd, but does not scream for attention. It’s outfits like these that are a good reminder that it doesn’t have to be difficult or costly to have perfect and expressive style.

NYC Street - Lunching in Williamsburg

2008-08-09T14:05:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - New York

Deconstruction and subtraction is rarely seen in menswear, but it is a very simple way of taking typical forms and creating something unique. These shorts are a fantastic example. From the viewpoint of the fashion industry, these are a simple and quick garment to construct. Yet in the eyes of the public they are a stunning piece of expression and easy to wear. Nobody losses.

Even aside from the shorts, this guy is perfectly styled from the curls on his head, to the tattoos on his arms, down to the personalized high-tops on his feet. Meanwhile, white eyebrows and hair create a shocking beauty.

Global Street - Helsinki

2008-08-06T23:13:00.000-07:00

The following images from Hel-Looks.

If you don’t know about Hel-Looks, it’s time. Today it seems that Scandinavia – and other northern countries which rarely see the sun – is the epicenter of avant-garde street fashion. Hel-Looks captures the men and women of Helsinki, Finland in unique and expressive clothing ranging anywhere from grudge to polished. Check it out at Hel-Looks.

NYC Street - A Ritual Walk Around Union Square

2008-07-30T22:46:00.000-07:00

Drop crotch shorts and pants seem to be synonymous these past seasons with certain NYC boutiques and designer names both big and small. When the above gentleman was asked where he found his, he simply replied “Indonesia.” No designer label. No boutique. Now, granted, today you are just as likely to find designer brands in Indonesia as you are at New York fashion week, but this does bring us back to reality when we consider where our fashion inspirations really come from. It’s important to remember that throughout history design has borrowed heavily from whatever cultures appear “exotic” during its era. We can easily see this with the Rococo, Victorian, and 1990s obsession with anything Chinese-inspired. When we look back on these eras, these infatuations look silly or, even sometimes, culturally ignorant. As we browse today’s avant-garde shops filled with eastern-inspired shapes and African-based textiles and patterns, we’re excited to see new and innovative garments within reach but at the same time do these pieces display ourselves as an era with little cultural understanding or is it alright to enjoy the fun and novelty inspired by a far away place? Do these pieces promote understanding of other nations, or do they reduce their culture down to a simple motif? If we wear drop-crotch pants this season, do we need to know their history from the Indian dhoti all the way up to MC Hammer, or can we just focus on our individual perception of the piece and today’s trend?

It’s unusual to see these same cultural issues still existing during an era of globalization and digital information, but at the same time it’s nice and humbling to know that we do still live in a place where there can exist a certain mystery and wonder within our world.

San Francisco Street

2008-07-26T00:47:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

I have no particular analysis for these ensembles. I appreciate them greatly and paired them because they both seemed to have a certain cirque du menswear aesthetic. Enjoy.

More New York street photos coming soon.

Runway - Walter Van Beirendonck: Fall 2008

2008-07-22T20:40:00.000-07:00

It’s a shame to limit Walter Van Beirendonck’s work to just a few images from the current season. As one of the original Antwerp Six, he has been prolifically designing artistic men’s garments longer than most of the fashionista’s pictured on this site have been alive. However, we must start somewhere, no?

Although the latex undergarment suits for this season’s line uncomfortably remind me of a rubber doll convention (don’t Google that if you’re on a work computer). I can see the general idea diffusing down in some ways (i.e., tight colorful gloves, pieces with extreme sheen) into the fashion scene. Latex aside, many of his pieces – despite focusing on social and political statements before wearability – could still be appropriate for streetwear. Some of his garments use the technique we discussed below of exaggerating typical men’s fashion to create a statement while still making a piece for everyday. And while wearing a strap-on to the grocery store may raise more than a few eyebrows, Van Beirendonck’s slightly less literal exploration of male body identity becomes more favorable when camouflaged into his printed motifs.

It’s important to point out that Van Beirendonck is also searching for new male silhouettes. Although we have discussed this idea many times, we have mainly focused on doing so through the creation of draped pieces for men. Instead, here we see the use of padding and structuring. Typical forms exaggerated through the addition of padding while corsetry is carefully introduced into pants to create a highly structured and unusually flattering male silhouette.

Finally, we must point out the intellect behind his creations. Rather that following trend, Van Beirendonck is known to focus on statements ranging from safe-sex to sustainability to male body image in order to create his lines. The burka-inspired veiled hoods of this season’s line signal ideas about today’s globalized culture and gender roles. So, although wearing his pieces may not immediately signal you as “in,” they will provide you with a deeper image and perhaps a deeper philosophy. Don’t you just love a smart designer?

San Francisco Street

2008-07-19T21:48:00.000-07:00

Photos by Vanguard - San Francisco

So, if the idea is that we can transform typical pieces enough to fill them with new ideas and individual identity, then the question is: how far do we need to transform or reinvent typical pieces in order for them to achieve this new idea?

Above we have a dress shirt – a symbol of men’s fashion – but here it is Raf Simons-ified. This piece is inflated beyond possibility. Hanging down to the knees and exaggerating the sheerness of men’s white button downs to near transparency (does it piss off anyone else that you can always see through white dress shirts?). Here, the symbols have stayed the same: collar, white fabric, button down, tails, cuffs. But through their exaggeration the form itself has been changed.

Above we have two more typical men’s fashion pieces: the hoodie and baseball cap. These pieces, however, change the material and construction in order to set themselves apart. The form of the hoodie has not changed, but by piecing it together with boldly contrasting colors it is changed enough to alter our perception of the piece. In a way, the lines created by the piecing allow the hoodie to be at first perceived as a different form altogether. The baseball cap is a form nostalgic irony by keeping it the same archetypal symbol but finishing it in and unexpected yellow patent leather.

I like these photos for their accessible inspiration. Yes, the garments pictured are designer, but any person in any town with any sum of money can easily reproduce these ideas in many ways with a bit of hunting and some time at the sewing machine. Meanwhile, by keeping basic and typical forms, it allows men even in towns and villages with the smallest fashion perception to express themselves with less potential of being ostracized or burnt at the stake by the townsfolk.

San Francisco Street

2008-07-15T23:02:00.000-07:00

Images by Vanguard - San Francisco

I know what you’re thinking. Blazers? Dress slacks? This is not Vanguard. Although these items are an unlikely find for us, I wanted to present them in a way that is expressive and distinctly not 'GQ.' The two men featured here have found ways to create a strong, individual statement with traditional men’s pieces while also appearing very well put together.

In the first photo, note how the high waisted and full dress pant is accentuated by the pocket chain. The juxtaposition of this pant with a tight blazer creates a unique silhouette.

The man below also alters the traditional silhouette by layering loose, unstructured pieces that appear to drape together. This creates richness, depth, and movement. The open neckline not only shows off his tattoo, but exposes and emphasizes the human beneath these layers.

Both men make use of contrasting textures. We see gauzy fabrics, corduroy, fur, and elements with sheen such as patent leather, metals, and nylon. This keeps the outfits interesting and rich.

Runway - Raf Simons: Spring 2008

2008-07-13T22:05:00.000-07:00

This should probably be my last plug for a Spring 2008 line as that season is now being quickly clearanced away and we can already see what is being created for next year. I do want to focus, however, on this one show as I believe it to be a pivotal point for Raf Simons. In the past few years, Raf has clearly been thinking more and more about dressing men outside of the box and in new silhouettes. Spring 2008 finally hit a point of devotion towards innovation as his line explored truly new forms appropriate for today’s man. We see this innovation only continuing to grow and evolve for this fall and the upcoming spring.

San Francisco Street - Transfer

2008-07-12T19:35:00.000-07:00

The following images by Vanguard - San Francisco.

The idea of the “appropriate” amount of skin a man can display has a huge impact on the amount of new forms and shapes that can be invented for men’s fashion. This influence is commonly discussed in women’s clothing (think of revolutionary flapper-garb and the ever changing skirt length) but we can, and do, see the same thing happening in menswear. The seventies and eighties are known for short shorts, bulgingly tight pants, and an abundance of exposed chest hair. Going into the nineties, however, these elements were all sharply removed and we saw the introduction of “relaxed fit” pants and shorts that would rarely run higher than knee height. This modesty provided us with new silhouettes for men but, as the pendulum quickly swings towards less modesty this summer, we should see even more emancipation in possible shapes for men.

The ever-deepening v-neck tee served as a good indicator for an attitude of exposure edging on, but few could have guessed the explosion of short-shorts coming from every side – on the runway, chain stores, vintage – even to the point of magazines denouncing any short (aside from knickers, of course) that are not clear above the knees. Along with shorts, a sea of new sheers and lose tanks – which seem to criticize covering the upper portion of men – have recently come into play. Place the catalyst where you will (global warming, vintage nostalgia) but one thing is sure: this reinvented exposure of the male body will provide a steady stream of new shapes and pieces that today’s man can add to his wardrobe.

This also creates a fantastic environment for menswear designers who want to experiment with new pieces and ideas that reveal more of a man’s body without their designs so quickly and negatively denounced as “flamboyant” as they probably would have been only a few seasons ago. This is going to provide menswear with a fantastic flow of new possibilities.

Fashion agendas aside, the exposure of the male figure could not have come at a better time when we consider larger men’s social issues. In times that may be characterized by mainstream teenage use of steroids and the growing visibility and discussion of male body dysmorphic disorders, will this sudden fashion trend allow also for visibility of how the “true” male figure is proportioned or will it only further feed the insecurities of today’s already vulnerable men?

Global Street - San Francisco

2008-07-08T08:32:00.000-07:00

Currently I am meandering through San Francisco – thus no updates – but I thought I would take time to plug the local San Francisco street fashion scene. Although now apparently defunct, the archives of Street Fancy is one of my favorite spots on the web. Their blog has a strong focus on men’s style and, as you can imagine, men’s fashion in San Fran is anything goes.

The following images are from Street Fancy.

Runway - Yohji Yamamoto: Fall 2008

2008-06-27T19:19:00.000-07:00

I have to agree with recent reviews of Yohji Yamamoto in that his designs are getting a tad repetitive and drowsy, but at the end of his fall 2008 show, he surprised us with a short series of fantastic gems. The draping of these pieces is exquisite and expressive yet powerful and masculine. The plaid adds personality and softens the piece (in comparison to if a solid neutral were used, typical to most men’s draped pieces) while enhancing the elaborate drape and adding movement. The visual weight of the fabric is rich and the juxtaposition with structured garments beneath them is perfection. These are extraordinary pieces that would pump some life into a long, bland winter.

The berets? Not needed.

NYC Street - Chinatown / SoHo Gallery Opening

2008-06-21T19:06:00.000-07:00

Photos by Vanguard.

Sometimes I think that with enough attitude (and triceps) you can wear anything and make it look like the next amazing thing.

Although I’m personally an advocate for big statements, occasionally it is just the details that let you say a lot.

In order for true innovation to occure in menswer, draped garments must be the future. I was dreading the reemergence of Doc Martens, but these Yohji Yamamoto boots are definitely the exception.

Reader Recommendation - Jeremy Scott

2008-06-19T21:53:00.000-07:00

After reading the previous post discussing the use of nostalgic irony, Gregory recommended I take a look at the work of Jeremy Scott. I knew about Jeremy Scott as a designer, but I had honestly never seen his men’s designs. What I find interesting is that he is combining a very strong nostalgic irony of the current generation’s childhood – complete with happy meals, sugary cereal, and Saturday morning cartoons – while still creating new forms for men. Rather than depending completely on irony as a mechanism to distract from a lack of innovation, he uses it as a tool to comfortably introduce new shapes, pieces, and details to men’s wardrobe. Whereas Number (N)ine - featured a few posts below - used strict monochromaticy to make new shapes acceptable, Jeremy Scott uses humor.

What becomes a bit bothersome, however, is the last image featured. More and more we see menswear becoming inspired from boyhood garments with, at times, the runway looking like a pajama party or boarding school recess. If we imagine seeing women’s runway models dressed like little girls (which I know we have seen) it would signal deep societal concerns. Yet with menswear we view it as ‘cute.’ As we enter a society where issues of gender equality have changed and major wireless commercials can be pulled for depicting men as “dumb” and “inferior to women” does it degrade men to be dressed as children?

Thanks for the recommendation Gregory. Reader recommendations can be sent to TylerMinneapoline@yahoo.com.

NYC Street - East Village / Union Square

2008-06-18T19:47:00.000-07:00

The following images were taken specifically for Vanguard.

I was recently thinking about how much I truely love the skinhead aesthetic. Just when I thought I would never see it outside of 1970s London, or rather specific gay porn, there it was! Just outside my building, nonetheless. How else can you wear flood pants yet still look like you're going to kick the shit out of someone?

I believe one thing that today's fashion will be known for is our strong use of ironic nostalgia in our dress. I appreciate irony greatly, and believe that the handsome lad above pulls it off quite well, but part of me believes that we are forced into using it as a way to cope with our desire for something new and brilliant out of a fashion world that is either stagnate or inaccessible.

Runway - Z Zegna: Spring 2008

2008-06-16T22:04:00.000-07:00

Coming from a company not known for innovation, in a season that will not be known for innovation, is a line that is surprisingly well done with many lessons for men. Z Zegna shows us some simple, but new ideas in texture, shapes, volume, and even how to wear satin ribbon around our ankles (very important) while staying with easy-to-wear pieces. Don’t expect quite so many instructions from them this fall.

NYC Street - Wandering Williamsburg

2008-06-16T01:13:00.000-07:00

The following images were taken specifically for Vanguard.

Much of today's alternative men's fashion tends to take on a more layered, cluttered, or dirty gutter-punk aesthetic. This ensemble stays clean cut but does not hinder expression. The most important element is, obviously, the Raf Simons spring 2007 shirt that adds movement and personality to a rather basic foundation. From there, a neat-and-tidy bag and haircut - both simple but with strong structural elements - keeps it clean while maintaining character. I think this is a perfect option for those of us (myself strongly included) too anal retentive for some of today's looser trends.

I doubt this requires much explanation. Perfect shorts, interesting materials, and amazing shoes.

This outfit is completely about the bag. A generic tote shape but with unique plaid print.

Subtle textures add an important material quality on each piece. This is a good example of a hoodie done correctly: the cut is interesting (specifically note the neck line) while the abundant over-sized closures add a focus.

One of the best tools for men's expression right now is hair. With the "short on the sides, messy on top" aesthetic now being reserved for those strictly under age 9, hair can become a new canvas for men. Each of the men above (even though all located only within a few blocks of each other) has managed to show a dramatically different aspect of the their personality through their hair. The key is to just go all the way with it.

Global - Tokyo

2008-06-14T11:50:00.000-07:00

The following images are from Tokyo Street Style.

One of the places in the world in which I am most jealous of men’s style is Tokyo (assuming that you manage to not get stuck in their prison-stripes of bland office-suits, of course). Tokyo Street Fashion is probably one of the world’s first street style blogs, even being pre-Facehunter, and it’s by far one of the most inspirational. It seems Tokyo men on the street can get away with wearing just about anything from the serious to the quirky. This also seems to be the land, however, where androgyny rules. This brings up a question: when trying to create new fashions for men, is the key to throw out gender all together? At first I don’t think so, but then when I think more about it, most of my favorite pieces were purchased from the same unisex shop, or seem to fit females just as well as males. As we see an ever continuous flow of menswear brought to the women’s runway and more and more new men’s forms also easily worn by women…are we headed towards a gender-less fashion?

Street Dialogue - Gustav

2008-06-14T00:20:00.000-07:00

Gustaf Heden - Sweden - Solo Musician

Spotted: Washington Square Park

What is your style inspiration?

My inspiration comes from ideas rather than actual pieces of clothing. I purchase clothing if it reminds me of something, like a character…such as if something will remind me of Wayne from Wayne’s World or from my own character or humor.

Do you ever feel your expression is stunted by men’s fashions?

Absolutely.

Sometimes I’ll see something but then the details are just not right.

What would your ideal piece of clothing be?

I’ve always been looking for the perfect purple suit. It sounds ridiculous. But a dark purple suit.

The closest I’ve gotten to the ideal piece of clothing was a pair of old-school Gucci loafers that I destroyed. They were the kind that were trendy in the 80s with a gold chain across them and rubber soles.

Runway - Number (N)ine: Spring 208

2008-06-14T00:01:00.000-07:00

We have to start somewhere.

To begin, I wanted to highlight my favorite looks from my runway image collection: Number (N)ine from Spring 2008.

One way, I believe, to begin creating a new form for men is to reduce to monochromatic neutral colors (maintaining masculinity) while introducing shapes and cuts that are modern, yet with a subtle-historic reference. The “hobo” layering draws a casual air while luxurious materials and a singular color keep a respectability. Take or leave the religious symbols on the necklace depending on how “hardcore” you want to appear, but I think they are done perfectly. If we want to create something more "office-appropriate" simply finish some of the “loose” edges, tailor a few pieces, and throw on a pair of dress shoes.

Also, I love knickers.

Vanguard

2008-06-13T23:36:00.000-07:00

Recognizing the importance of fashion and styling as a medium of instant outward communication of the individual, it is my belief that the state of men’s fashion stunts our ability to express the individual within. The intent of this blog is to explore and collect real-life manifestations that allow men to convey an identity outside of the mainstream while still maintaining that one, tricky idea: masculinity.

Vanguard will explore the male guise by collecting and reflecting on:

Street fashion shot here in New York
Street fashion collected from blogs around the world
Personal interviews
Runway highlights
Featured shopping

If you are expecting to see the latest suit, cuff link, graphic t-shirt, sneaker, or gadget, then there are other places for you to go.

As a true exploration, it is the intent of Vanguard to incorporate ideas and discussion from readers. If you have anything to share, please comment or email TylerMinneapoline@yahoo.com for review.